Today, Amsterdam observed Keti Koti, marking the abolition of slavery in Suriname and the Dutch Caribbean in 1863. Throughout the month, the city hosted a variety of Keti Koti events, but today’s programme was especially significant: the Bigi Spikri parade through the city centre, the National Commemoration at the Slavery Monument in Oosterpark, and music, performances, and cultural activities at Museumplein.
Notes from the Bigi Spikri parade
‘Bigi Spikri’ is a Surinamese term meaning “big mirror.” The name refers to the tradition of people in elaborate traditional dress admiring their reflections in the shop windows of Paramaribo during festive parades. This tradition continues in the Netherlands, where Amsterdam has hosted an annual Bigi Spikri parade since 2009, celebrating Surinamese culture and heritage.
I arrived a bit later than the start of the parade at Waterlooplein, and I went from the metro straight to the parade. Because I couldn’t see much ahead, I couldn’t understand if it had just started or where exactly I was in the line. I was immediately swept into the atmosphere, as it usually happens at these events. I started taking pictures and videos, and ran a bit to get in front of the group I was following, where the musicians were. It was only when I reached the front that I realised I was somewhere in the middle of the huge parade.
I didn’t know what to expect. Last year, when I wrote the article about Keti Koti, I couldn’t find many photos and they were not very conclusive.
I’m still waiting for the official numbers but there were definitely hundreds of people there, maybe a thousand. I also couldn’t take a photo that really showed how big the crowd was, I guess a drone would have been nice (but they’re not allowed in Amsterdam).
I didn’t know where to look first. So many costumes, all so varied. I made a note for myself to learn more about them, as I didn’t expect such a wide variety.
There were kids, parents, and grandparents in the parade, braving the sun and singing, dancing, marching to celebrate and honour the resilience of enslaved people and their descendants.
At some point, while I was scouting the next person to photograph, I felt strong arms grabbing me, and then I saw a woman in a beautiful blue and white costume almost hugging me with a warm, motherly embrace. I was surprised for a second: what is she doing? And then she said: “Stepaway from the edge, you’re gonna fall”. I was on a tram stop platform, almost falling. How did she see me in that crowd and save me from another twisted ankle, I don’t know. But thank you, woman in a blue and white costume.
After a while I understood how the parade was formed, the several groups with different music, and I moved back and forth between them. From time to time I dared to ask someone to pose for me. I would have taken portraits of everyone, I can tell you.
Along the way, I started feeling sick from the heat. Someone handed out water bottles, so I survived until we reached Oosterpark, for the commemoration.
Sadly, the access to the monument area was only for those with press accreditation, which I hadn’t arranged in advance. And I got even more nauseous so I had to go home and watch the ceremony on tv. But my goal for today was to finally see this parade, and I did, and getting sick from the heat was worth it.
On my way to the metro, a group of people from the parade, still in their colourful costumes, called out to a man driving a trash truck. He stopped, and they talked briefly about the parade. It was a small moment, but it stayed with me. It was a reminder that many people of Surinamese and Caribbean descent in the Netherlands are still overrepresented in lower-paid jobs. Discrimination and racism remain a reality in the Netherlands, and much more is needed to address these inequalities.
⤵️ A small selection of moments that stayed with me from the parade.
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